Though is was largely and uneventful weekend, it did have some notable nuggets. My host mom was out of town and it was actually nice to have the apartment to ourselves. I had some friends over for a relaxing dinner on Friday night. We made fajitas and just sat around laughing. On Saturday, Sunni and I went to Musee Carnavalet in the Marais. While the actual works of art housed in this museum are not that exciting (the theme of the museum is Parisienne history), the building itself is an old mansion. It is absolutely beautiful and sort of crazy that it used to be someone's house. The real reason we went was because it was the last weekend of the Louis Vuitton exhibit. Vuitton is not actually one of my favorite designers, but the exhibit was fascinating. It documented how and where he got his start and went through his career and his legacy. They had some of the original trunks and pieces from each decade. It was quite awesome.
This week commenced with our OFII appointments. In order to stay in France for more than three months, one must have an appointment at l'Office Francais de l'immigration et l'integration. This appointment consists of lots of paper work, a quick chat with a nurse, measurements, eye check and a chest x-ray. Basically, they want to make sure you aren't spreading tuberculosis around the country. One of the weirdest parts is that they let you keep the x-ray. So, I now how a sizable x-ray of my lungs. Alright...new wall decoration? The most annoying part is that they make you pay 55 euros to put this great big sticker in your passport. The French make you pay for everything. At least it was good to know I'm nice and healthy. And aside from asking the desk manager if I was dead instead of if I was finished, the appointment went without a hitch.
In addition to delicious pastries, every boulangerie produces fresh meringues everyday. I have taken to sampling ones that look good and trying to find the best blend of crispy outside and chewy inside. I have yet to find the perfection I am looking for.
Erin and Bianca are coming into town next weekend and I can't wait! And the weather report shows straight sun!
Monday, February 28, 2011
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Bon Weekend Parisienne
There is nothing like spending a weekend with old friends like Monet, Raphael, DaVinci, Caravaggio and Praxiteles and new friends like Laurel Rory Mitchell. This weekend commenced Friday morning with a rendez-vous in the Marais with Sunni and Laurel to get falafels and explore. Suffice to say, best falafels of my life...see explanation below. After a long walk along rue de Rivoli past the Hotel de Ville, the Louvre and Notre Dame in the distance, we wandered into Musée de l'Orangerie. Knowing in advance that it housed Monet's "Water Lilies" I enjoyed their glory and was wonderfully calmed by their presence, but one of the best things about Paris? There is always a famous piece of art lurking around the corner. We continued to explore the museum further and found that it houses the majority of the high impressionist painters like Renoir, Matisse, Cezanne, Picasso the list goes on and on. Among them, one of my favorite impressionist works, "Deux Filles au Piano" by Renoir
After a wonderful day of culture, I joined Laurel and her visiting parents that evening for dinner at La Gare. A train station turned restaurant located in the 16th Arrondissment of Paris. The building itself was a joy to behold. In the summer, the ceiling opens up so the patrons can dine "en pleine aire". The food was delicious as well.
Saturday poured rain all day long without stopping. Thus, I started the day off with a gym visit, some shopping and then lazing around the house. Helene has commenced to calling me one of three things: the most common is "la grande sportive" considering I am the only one of the two of us who works out. The next to are interchangeable: cuckoo or ma belle. I like ma belle, but I cannot speak to the reason for cuckoo.
Sunday, I woke up and headed to the Louvre toute-seule. The bus that stops right outside of our apartment goes straight to the Louvre so it is a very easy trip. My French student ID gets me into virtually any museum for free so I just spent my morning exploring the first of three wings of the Louvre. I could never have imagined the immense size of this museum. I decided to start with the most popular of the three because it wasn't crowded. This wing of the Louvre holds the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, the Louvre two most famous works. However, upon mounting the stairs I was greeted by a lovely surprise. Never had I known that the Louvre houses my second favorite sculpture the Nike of Samothrace (only second to the Artemision Zeus, housed in Athens). It was a grand surprise.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the Mona Lisa. I have heard for so long that it is unexciting, even ugly in person; Small and dark. It, however, is not as small as people have made it out to be. She is quite lovely actually. If it hadn't been surrounded by a crowd, I would have lingered in front of it longer. I could have spent hours wandering around the museum, but Laurel pulled me back to reality for tea at Ladurée. I think this is something everyone should experience once in their life. Simply exquisite pastries, with actual flavor, a rare occurrence is works of art. It's sort of like disneyland for tea, but so much fun.
Notable Meals:
Friday-
Lunch: Shwarma and Falafel (we all split) at L'As du Falafel. There are no words, just the best of everything
Dinner at La Gare
-Pumpkin soup over baby greens with parmesan/prosciutto crouton. Great flavor, could have been a bit hotter
-Barbet over roasted chestnuts in a spinach puree with sauteed chanterelles. Ethereal
-Chocolate cake with banana caramel ice cream and a homemade marshmallow. Marshmallow was amazing, dessert was trumped by another dessert. Mirabelle and pear crumble.
Sunday:
Helene made chili and cornbread! And a truly delicious chili and cornbread at that. Super spicy with nice big chunks of bell pepper and kidney beans.
After a wonderful day of culture, I joined Laurel and her visiting parents that evening for dinner at La Gare. A train station turned restaurant located in the 16th Arrondissment of Paris. The building itself was a joy to behold. In the summer, the ceiling opens up so the patrons can dine "en pleine aire". The food was delicious as well.
Saturday poured rain all day long without stopping. Thus, I started the day off with a gym visit, some shopping and then lazing around the house. Helene has commenced to calling me one of three things: the most common is "la grande sportive" considering I am the only one of the two of us who works out. The next to are interchangeable: cuckoo or ma belle. I like ma belle, but I cannot speak to the reason for cuckoo.
Sunday, I woke up and headed to the Louvre toute-seule. The bus that stops right outside of our apartment goes straight to the Louvre so it is a very easy trip. My French student ID gets me into virtually any museum for free so I just spent my morning exploring the first of three wings of the Louvre. I could never have imagined the immense size of this museum. I decided to start with the most popular of the three because it wasn't crowded. This wing of the Louvre holds the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, the Louvre two most famous works. However, upon mounting the stairs I was greeted by a lovely surprise. Never had I known that the Louvre houses my second favorite sculpture the Nike of Samothrace (only second to the Artemision Zeus, housed in Athens). It was a grand surprise.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the Mona Lisa. I have heard for so long that it is unexciting, even ugly in person; Small and dark. It, however, is not as small as people have made it out to be. She is quite lovely actually. If it hadn't been surrounded by a crowd, I would have lingered in front of it longer. I could have spent hours wandering around the museum, but Laurel pulled me back to reality for tea at Ladurée. I think this is something everyone should experience once in their life. Simply exquisite pastries, with actual flavor, a rare occurrence is works of art. It's sort of like disneyland for tea, but so much fun.
Notable Meals:
Friday-
Lunch: Shwarma and Falafel (we all split) at L'As du Falafel. There are no words, just the best of everything
Dinner at La Gare
-Pumpkin soup over baby greens with parmesan/prosciutto crouton. Great flavor, could have been a bit hotter
-Barbet over roasted chestnuts in a spinach puree with sauteed chanterelles. Ethereal
-Chocolate cake with banana caramel ice cream and a homemade marshmallow. Marshmallow was amazing, dessert was trumped by another dessert. Mirabelle and pear crumble.
Sunday:
Helene made chili and cornbread! And a truly delicious chili and cornbread at that. Super spicy with nice big chunks of bell pepper and kidney beans.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Weekend Update
Friday:
A truly gorgeous day in Paris, started off the morning by going to Basilique St. Denis in the north with my Art and Architecture class. This church, a good deal older than Notre Dame, houses all of the tombs of the early French kings beginning in the 4th century spanning to the Revolution. It was both eerie and fascinating at the same time. All of the crypt is still intact.
After that, Sunni, Laurel and I went to a Japanese restaurant right by school. It is now one of my new favorite places. Very well priced, it reminds me very much of Asahi Ramen back home. After lunch was a visit to Le Petit Palais to do research for my language class. We were required to go see the photography exhibit of Pierre and Alexandra Boulat. This exhibit contrasts the work of Pierre Boulat and his daughter Alexandra beginning in the 50s and continuing with her work after his death. It was such an interesting show. Monsieur Boulat's photographs are truly awe inspiring. He photographed Paris during occupation, many famous New York stars in the 60s and even documented the first couture show of Yves Saint Laurent. His daughter's photographs, while spectacular as well, did not hold the same allure for me as her father's perhaps because they were mostly present day pictures. After the museum we walked along the Champs Elysee, which I had never done. Admittedly it was beautiful, but I am not one for the major touristy activities; it was kind of like Disneyland.
Saturday:
Woke up bright and early. Headed to the gym for a quick 6K then explored our local outdoor market. Being a true Santa Monica native, I love our farmers market but it does not hold a candle to this one. While it is a bit smaller, it has an astounding selection. Everything from produce to multiple fish stands, meat vendors selling every cut of meat imaginable including whole pigs ears, mushrooms, nuts, sweet meats, honey, eggs, clothes and the list goes on and on. It was so fun to go and explore something the United States would never allow because of all the health regulations. At 5, Laurel and I went to see Black Swan. I had already seen it, but she wanted to and I didn't mind seeing it again. I'll tell you, going to the cinema in Paris is very worth the experience and I would do it again. The huge theater is right across the street from l'Opera de Paris. It is less expensive to get a ticket and popcorn than it is to buy one ticket in LA. Not only is the price right, the theater is lovely! Spacious, comfy seating and clean. For dinner, we went to Les Pietons Laurel's tapas bar (she was here last semester). New. Favorite. Place. The food is fantastic, it is affordable, the staff is absolutely lovely, great music and the Sangria is the best I have ever tasted.
Sunday:
I had a nice lazy day today. The gym is closed on Sundays so that is my day off. I do enjoy giggling at the differences between my parents and Helene and Thomas sometimes. For example, on the weekends H & T will frequently make a pot of coffee and lie in bed lounging until noon. My parents are up and at 'em by 9..no later. Helene's friend from her theater group came over for dinner. We had a lovely time discussing all the museums we must go to while in Paris. In addition, we got to see some of Helene's actress-side displayed. I can assure you it was quite a treat.
I had a very reassuring weekend. I received two compliments on my French speaking abilities. One was from our neighbor, an elderly man who, after about 6 minutes of conversation, told me I speak very well. Another from a couple of girls we met a the Tapas place on Saturday. We were talking to them about how long we had been here etc and one girl looked at me and said (in french) "You've only been here a month?? How long have you been taking French? You speak so well!" Coming from a Parisian, I was pleased. Hurrah!
Notable Meals (and food):
Thursday:
-My friend Laurel was showing me around the new mall Printemps. We stopped in and split one of the delicious concoctions I have ever tasted. It was from the famous macaron bakery, La Duree. Called a St Honoré, It was a pate a chou base, pumped with a bit of raspberry jam, with rose flavored whipped cream on top and raspberries. I'm pretty positive it was a little piece of heaven.
Saturday:
Tapas included:
-very yummy olives
-one of the most flavorful gazpachos I've ever had
-country bread with avocado and Serrano ham
-croquette
Sunday:
-my favorite pumpkin soup of Helene's invention
-a sort of shepherd's pie but duck instead of beef-amazing. the duck was cooked and seasoned to perfection, then came a layer of tiny chopped carrots, then topped with a puree of potatoes and some parsnip covered with breadcrumbs and baked. delish
-confit of oranges, cooked in honey, candied ginger and sugar. Absolutely amazing. Sort of a more flavorful version of the pre-stage of mom's candied orange peel.
A truly gorgeous day in Paris, started off the morning by going to Basilique St. Denis in the north with my Art and Architecture class. This church, a good deal older than Notre Dame, houses all of the tombs of the early French kings beginning in the 4th century spanning to the Revolution. It was both eerie and fascinating at the same time. All of the crypt is still intact.
After that, Sunni, Laurel and I went to a Japanese restaurant right by school. It is now one of my new favorite places. Very well priced, it reminds me very much of Asahi Ramen back home. After lunch was a visit to Le Petit Palais to do research for my language class. We were required to go see the photography exhibit of Pierre and Alexandra Boulat. This exhibit contrasts the work of Pierre Boulat and his daughter Alexandra beginning in the 50s and continuing with her work after his death. It was such an interesting show. Monsieur Boulat's photographs are truly awe inspiring. He photographed Paris during occupation, many famous New York stars in the 60s and even documented the first couture show of Yves Saint Laurent. His daughter's photographs, while spectacular as well, did not hold the same allure for me as her father's perhaps because they were mostly present day pictures. After the museum we walked along the Champs Elysee, which I had never done. Admittedly it was beautiful, but I am not one for the major touristy activities; it was kind of like Disneyland.
Saturday:
Woke up bright and early. Headed to the gym for a quick 6K then explored our local outdoor market. Being a true Santa Monica native, I love our farmers market but it does not hold a candle to this one. While it is a bit smaller, it has an astounding selection. Everything from produce to multiple fish stands, meat vendors selling every cut of meat imaginable including whole pigs ears, mushrooms, nuts, sweet meats, honey, eggs, clothes and the list goes on and on. It was so fun to go and explore something the United States would never allow because of all the health regulations. At 5, Laurel and I went to see Black Swan. I had already seen it, but she wanted to and I didn't mind seeing it again. I'll tell you, going to the cinema in Paris is very worth the experience and I would do it again. The huge theater is right across the street from l'Opera de Paris. It is less expensive to get a ticket and popcorn than it is to buy one ticket in LA. Not only is the price right, the theater is lovely! Spacious, comfy seating and clean. For dinner, we went to Les Pietons Laurel's tapas bar (she was here last semester). New. Favorite. Place. The food is fantastic, it is affordable, the staff is absolutely lovely, great music and the Sangria is the best I have ever tasted.
Sunday:
I had a nice lazy day today. The gym is closed on Sundays so that is my day off. I do enjoy giggling at the differences between my parents and Helene and Thomas sometimes. For example, on the weekends H & T will frequently make a pot of coffee and lie in bed lounging until noon. My parents are up and at 'em by 9..no later. Helene's friend from her theater group came over for dinner. We had a lovely time discussing all the museums we must go to while in Paris. In addition, we got to see some of Helene's actress-side displayed. I can assure you it was quite a treat.
I had a very reassuring weekend. I received two compliments on my French speaking abilities. One was from our neighbor, an elderly man who, after about 6 minutes of conversation, told me I speak very well. Another from a couple of girls we met a the Tapas place on Saturday. We were talking to them about how long we had been here etc and one girl looked at me and said (in french) "You've only been here a month?? How long have you been taking French? You speak so well!" Coming from a Parisian, I was pleased. Hurrah!
Notable Meals (and food):
Thursday:
-My friend Laurel was showing me around the new mall Printemps. We stopped in and split one of the delicious concoctions I have ever tasted. It was from the famous macaron bakery, La Duree. Called a St Honoré, It was a pate a chou base, pumped with a bit of raspberry jam, with rose flavored whipped cream on top and raspberries. I'm pretty positive it was a little piece of heaven.
Saturday:
Tapas included:
-very yummy olives
-one of the most flavorful gazpachos I've ever had
-country bread with avocado and Serrano ham
-croquette
Sunday:
-my favorite pumpkin soup of Helene's invention
-a sort of shepherd's pie but duck instead of beef-amazing. the duck was cooked and seasoned to perfection, then came a layer of tiny chopped carrots, then topped with a puree of potatoes and some parsnip covered with breadcrumbs and baked. delish
-confit of oranges, cooked in honey, candied ginger and sugar. Absolutely amazing. Sort of a more flavorful version of the pre-stage of mom's candied orange peel.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
1 Month!
I have officially been away from home for one month. It both feels longer and shorter than that time. One one hand I feel like I have been away forever however, on the other I already feel pressure to step up my exploring game. The one thing I don't want is to leave here without accomplishing my bucket list!
We went to the Louvre for my art history class today, I had never been. It was absolutely incredible and we only saw a very small part of the sculpture department. It is such a privilege because we get to just come back next week and go through all the sculpture we have not yet covered in class. I really could not get over the building much less the art. The set up of the building and the contrast between IM Pei's modern Pyramid and the old architecture is stunning. I cannot wait to go back. My art history student id card gets me into any museum for free!
Little things about this culture always make me giggle. Even grocery shopping is amusing. They also seem to celebrate food than many other cultures. Monday was European Nutella day and this month seems to be Brioche month, last month was Galette des Rois month. Every bakery that was making all kinds of Galettes des Rois last month is cooking up all shapes, sizes, and flavors of Brioche. Apparently there is a different type of brioche for every region.
Notable Meals:
Only in France would your host mother serve you a crepe casserole made with buckwheat crepes, mushrooms, ham and cheese. It sounds weird but it was so tasty.
We went to the Louvre for my art history class today, I had never been. It was absolutely incredible and we only saw a very small part of the sculpture department. It is such a privilege because we get to just come back next week and go through all the sculpture we have not yet covered in class. I really could not get over the building much less the art. The set up of the building and the contrast between IM Pei's modern Pyramid and the old architecture is stunning. I cannot wait to go back. My art history student id card gets me into any museum for free!
Little things about this culture always make me giggle. Even grocery shopping is amusing. They also seem to celebrate food than many other cultures. Monday was European Nutella day and this month seems to be Brioche month, last month was Galette des Rois month. Every bakery that was making all kinds of Galettes des Rois last month is cooking up all shapes, sizes, and flavors of Brioche. Apparently there is a different type of brioche for every region.
Notable Meals:
Only in France would your host mother serve you a crepe casserole made with buckwheat crepes, mushrooms, ham and cheese. It sounds weird but it was so tasty.
Monday, February 7, 2011
la nouvelle année chinois (et multiculturelle??)
We changed it up this weekend and decided to go to a tiny jazz club right near Notre Dame. It was fabulous. Down a narrow stone staircase to a small cavernous, packed room. We were seated right the very front. The atmosphere was lively and the music was great.
Sunday, we went to Place d'Italie for the Chinese New Year parade. Colorful and loud as hell, it definitely raised my spirits after a few days of homesickness. While the parade was Chinese dominated, there were definitely other cultures represented including a large portion of Caribbean descent. Never the less, it was entertaining. We finished up the afternoon with some fabulous Chinese food. Good to know one can find delicious, cheap, asian food in France.
I began by class at l'Institut Catholique today. Ca sera difficile. In other words, this is going to be quite a challenge. Taking a class with all French students is in no way the same experience as taking one with other international students. The professors speak at lighting speed and write very little on the board. Luckily, the other French students are very intrigued by us American students and are thus very willing to help. One student even gave me and another student the website on which he posts all his notes for the class. I'm sure that will be very helpful.
Today was the first fully sunny day in weeks... and I had class all day. Tragic. Oh well. Not much else to report!
Sunday, we went to Place d'Italie for the Chinese New Year parade. Colorful and loud as hell, it definitely raised my spirits after a few days of homesickness. While the parade was Chinese dominated, there were definitely other cultures represented including a large portion of Caribbean descent. Never the less, it was entertaining. We finished up the afternoon with some fabulous Chinese food. Good to know one can find delicious, cheap, asian food in France.
I began by class at l'Institut Catholique today. Ca sera difficile. In other words, this is going to be quite a challenge. Taking a class with all French students is in no way the same experience as taking one with other international students. The professors speak at lighting speed and write very little on the board. Luckily, the other French students are very intrigued by us American students and are thus very willing to help. One student even gave me and another student the website on which he posts all his notes for the class. I'm sure that will be very helpful.
Today was the first fully sunny day in weeks... and I had class all day. Tragic. Oh well. Not much else to report!
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Day 21: doubts? nah
As is bound to happen on any long trip, there comes those moments of doubt. Should I be doing this? Should I go home? Why am I here? Some of those moments came to me this week what with starting classes, getting the stomach flu, encountering language barriers and just flat out needing my mommy. You don't realize how different a country is until you get sick. Really.
However, having gotten nearly 20 hours of sleep in 24 hours, I awoke this morning feeling rested and nearly back to normal. I spent a day in classes, which were very engaging, and spent the day exploring on my own. While the little quirks of this city and its culture can be frustrating, they are also what gives it its charm. So with a new (and bonne santé) perspective, I press on excited to fall more in love with the city of lights. And instead of calling February 2nd groundhog day, the French know it as National Crêpe Day...what's better than that?
à bientôt!
However, having gotten nearly 20 hours of sleep in 24 hours, I awoke this morning feeling rested and nearly back to normal. I spent a day in classes, which were very engaging, and spent the day exploring on my own. While the little quirks of this city and its culture can be frustrating, they are also what gives it its charm. So with a new (and bonne santé) perspective, I press on excited to fall more in love with the city of lights. And instead of calling February 2nd groundhog day, the French know it as National Crêpe Day...what's better than that?
à bientôt!
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