So upon my departure from the city of light, a torrential about of bad luck befell me. Hence, why I have not since posted. My last week in Europe flew by in a whirl of upset, happiness, sun and fantasy. I went from the beautiful beaches of Alicante, Spain, where I seemed to meet my every possible foe (thieves, sun and technology) to the charmed life of England's gentry, all the way back to Santa Barbara, California where I promptly got a terrible cold and remained in bed for my 5 days at home. A quick roadtrip up the coast later and I am safely settled back in Walla Walla, Washington. Having been back for two weeks, it appears that the summer will consist of lots of potlucks, porch sitting and volleyball in the sun. With that realized, I have decided to continue the blog: a little bear's search for cheese: part deux.
The origin and inspiration for the dinner we hosted last night needs a bit of explanation. After graduation, the senior DGs left for their grown up lives and the fraternity houses closed their doors for the summer. Living in the most prominent DG house on campus, our humble abode lent itself easily as a deposit for all the leftover food that all the previously mentioned groups had to hand off. 3 days later, we found ourselves laden with boxes of pasta, cans, cereal and a variety of different lunch meats and cheeses. As such, we decided to have a "Zoo feeds everyone-pasta feed". We cooked up all of our different pastas, creating a potpourri of sorts. I then proceeded to create a sauce that turned out to be quite delicious. My own variation on an amatriciana, I made a sauce using onions,garlic, julienned salami, roasted red peppers, oregano from our garden, tomatoes and some red pepper flakes. To my delight, it proved to be quite good. Everyone else contributed dishes of fresh sauteed asparagus, salad, and banana bread. We sat out on our large patio and shared a wonderful meal with random foods and random friends. There is going to be an effort made to keep this tradition going weekly. Next week? Mexican. We also acquired seemingly endless amounts of tortillas, cheese, refried beans and tomatoes.
This blog will be switching to a new link, so follow me there!
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
T-Minus...
ONE WEEK?? Well, technically one week and 4 days until I leave Europe, but I leave France one week from today! It is absolutely crazy how fast time has flown. There is so much left to do and not nearly enough time to do it. The past 2 weeks have most definitely gone the fastest. Easter weekend was such fun. Even though France is a neutral country (religiously), Easter is clearly a big holiday. Everyone gets monday off work, and many Parisians leave town. I chose to spend the day with Laurel. We started off the fresh, sunny morning with homemade crepes (made by yours truly), then headed to Chatelet-Les Halles to go to mass at St Eustache. While this church is a bit more off the grid than a church such as Notre Dame, it is certainly not understated. Probably the size of one and a half Notre Dames, it is an early gothic church built around 1200. The service was lovely. Not very touristy and filled with mostly locals, it was such an interesting experience to attend. The catholic Easter tradition is very different from that of the Protestant, yet equally as moving. The music was spectacular and the ambiance was joyful and calm at the same time. Surprisingly enough, I understood close to 90% of the service which I was not expecting, in part because the priest spoke rather slowly.
On Tuesday night, Helene returned home from her town of Vosges, so I made dinner for the three of us. Sonia supplied the desserts. Originally intending to make lavender roast chicken, that plan was foiled when I realized I only know how to use our broiler and not our oven. Instead I turned to a staple of my mother's: Korean marinated milanese steaks and arugula salad with grilled bread and spring onions. While I maintain it was not my best meal, Helene and Sonia were kind enough to gush over it. This weeks family dinners have been bittersweet because we know the end is coming. Helene has truly been the best host mother I could have asked for and was an incredible blessing considering my past host family experiences. After she left on Saturday, I came home to find a giant chocolate rooster and basket sitting on my bedside table with an Easter note. I cannot wait to come back to Paris and visit her.
Knowing that we only have one week left has also made preparing for finals that much more difficult. I don't want to stay in my room and study when I could be checking off my bucket list?? Who do they think we are...students?? I just think it would be much more practical to have finals a week before we leave, not the week of.
A wonderful thing happened this week as well. I had the chance to meet up with a good friend whom I had not seen for 12 years! (it made me feel quite old). Adrian Merrick moved away when we were 9 and I have not seen her since. Coincidentally we are both study in Paris and decided to meet up at a cafe for coffee. Coffee turned into 5 hours of catching up on all we had missed. 12 years later and we are still the same little girls with a love for old movies and tea. Fantastic and surreal, it felt like nothing had changed.
On Tuesday night, Helene returned home from her town of Vosges, so I made dinner for the three of us. Sonia supplied the desserts. Originally intending to make lavender roast chicken, that plan was foiled when I realized I only know how to use our broiler and not our oven. Instead I turned to a staple of my mother's: Korean marinated milanese steaks and arugula salad with grilled bread and spring onions. While I maintain it was not my best meal, Helene and Sonia were kind enough to gush over it. This weeks family dinners have been bittersweet because we know the end is coming. Helene has truly been the best host mother I could have asked for and was an incredible blessing considering my past host family experiences. After she left on Saturday, I came home to find a giant chocolate rooster and basket sitting on my bedside table with an Easter note. I cannot wait to come back to Paris and visit her.
Knowing that we only have one week left has also made preparing for finals that much more difficult. I don't want to stay in my room and study when I could be checking off my bucket list?? Who do they think we are...students?? I just think it would be much more practical to have finals a week before we leave, not the week of.
A wonderful thing happened this week as well. I had the chance to meet up with a good friend whom I had not seen for 12 years! (it made me feel quite old). Adrian Merrick moved away when we were 9 and I have not seen her since. Coincidentally we are both study in Paris and decided to meet up at a cafe for coffee. Coffee turned into 5 hours of catching up on all we had missed. 12 years later and we are still the same little girls with a love for old movies and tea. Fantastic and surreal, it felt like nothing had changed.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Spring Break
After three months of classes and a wonderful visit from the parents, spring break finally came and is now coming to a close. Originally, Laurel and I considered visiting the UK for our free week, however the gloomy Paris weather drove us, instead, to the Cote d'Azur in the south. A week of Nice and Monaco were indeed the perfect tonic to what had been a very long winter. I hadn't realized how much I missed the beach until I smelled the salt and felt the breeze. The last time I visited the Mediterranean Sea I was only 2, so essentially this was my first time. While absolutely gorgeous, blue water, calm waves, it is very different than the Pacific Ocean beaches I am used to. The beach is not sand, but instead made up of lots of fist sized rocks. These are perfectly fine to sit and lay on, but they make getting in and out of the ocean very difficult and hard on the feet. The culture is also very different. Umbrellas are hard to come by and there are equal numbers of young people and old people baking in the sun. There appears to be far less concern for sun damage. After soaking up some much needed vitamin D, we decided to venture onto Monaco, land-of-plenty, for a day. If one were to combine Disneyland and Las Vegas, add some european flare and a beach, you would come up with Monaco. The palace where the prince still lives today, looks like It's a Small World. There are more yachts in the three harbors than I have ever seen in one place at a time and photos of Grace Kelly line the streets. It really is a beautiful place, it just had a bit of a fake feel. The most fun part for me was getting to visit the Musee Oceanographique where Jacques Cousteau was the director for 32 years. The amazing building sits built into a cliffside over looking the ocean. The entire interior was designed for the aquarium, down to the staircase banisters which are decorated with conch shell sculptures.
It was wonderful to come home to a sunny Paris and it seems that the weather is to remain sunny for the rest of our time here. Wonderful news indeed. It is really crazy that the semester is coming to a close. In total, we have 7 days left of class, 3 days of finals and 2 weekends. Time really flew by. I was walking along the Seine last night on my way home, the moon was full, I could see Notre Dame to my left and the Eiffel Tower to my right. I realized that while I will be happy to go home, I really will miss this place so much. Though the culture may be odd (ex it was 70 degrees this weekend and I got weird looks for wearing shorts) and the cost of living expensive as hell, Paris is a wonderful combination of history and modernity. Traditional is so many ways and cutting edge at others, it is truly awe inspiring.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Playing Catch Up
When living in a city far away, there comes a point when distraction sets in and, for a fleeting moment, you forget about your life back home. I had several of those moments in the two weeks and I send my apologies for neglecting you all. Since last time, I have celebrated St. Patrick's day, gone to Chartres Cathedral, given a thirty minute oral presentation to my Institut Catholique class, and spent a lovely week with my parents.
St Patrick's Day:
A holiday much more exuberantly celebrated here than in the US, I assume because of the proximity to Ireland. It was quite nice, actually. It was the first time that most of our program all got a chance to hang out together outside of the classroom. An overwhelming abundance of shamrock pins, hats and singing.
Chartres Cathedral:
I have dreamt about visiting this church since I studied it in high school. Known for it's stained glass windows, Chartres is one of the oldest cathedrals in France and has the 3rd largest crypt in the world. The Cathedral was stunning even if the windows weren't as thrilling as I had expected. I think the most beautiful parts were the marble labyrinth on the floor and the gothic semi-circle wall around the altar. The windows, of course, were beautiful, but the intricate carving and decoration on the inside was really amazing.
It was such a pleasure to have my parents here this past week and to really so them my Paris. Although there were some hiccups, mom got sick and there were some sub-par meals, I think they were able to get a taste of how my life has been going here. The highlight by far was our dinner with Helene and Thomas. It was so funny to hear Helene speak in English, because she rarely does when we are at home. She prepared a fabulous aperitif which consisted of far more than appetizers. Thomas loved getting a chance to speak English and mom thought Helene was a hoot. We found out that Helene is a virgo and Thomas is a Tauren just like my parents, what a coincidence. At the end of the evening, seeing how much my mom enjoyed the Laduree cookbook that Helene published, gave mom her copy. She is really one of the most generous people. The sadness of having to leave her is already starting to set in.
We have spring break starting on Friday and I am beyond ready for a break. I am going to Nice with Laurel and plan on doing nothing but lie on the beach. I need some sun.
St Patrick's Day:
A holiday much more exuberantly celebrated here than in the US, I assume because of the proximity to Ireland. It was quite nice, actually. It was the first time that most of our program all got a chance to hang out together outside of the classroom. An overwhelming abundance of shamrock pins, hats and singing.
Chartres Cathedral:
I have dreamt about visiting this church since I studied it in high school. Known for it's stained glass windows, Chartres is one of the oldest cathedrals in France and has the 3rd largest crypt in the world. The Cathedral was stunning even if the windows weren't as thrilling as I had expected. I think the most beautiful parts were the marble labyrinth on the floor and the gothic semi-circle wall around the altar. The windows, of course, were beautiful, but the intricate carving and decoration on the inside was really amazing.
It was such a pleasure to have my parents here this past week and to really so them my Paris. Although there were some hiccups, mom got sick and there were some sub-par meals, I think they were able to get a taste of how my life has been going here. The highlight by far was our dinner with Helene and Thomas. It was so funny to hear Helene speak in English, because she rarely does when we are at home. She prepared a fabulous aperitif which consisted of far more than appetizers. Thomas loved getting a chance to speak English and mom thought Helene was a hoot. We found out that Helene is a virgo and Thomas is a Tauren just like my parents, what a coincidence. At the end of the evening, seeing how much my mom enjoyed the Laduree cookbook that Helene published, gave mom her copy. She is really one of the most generous people. The sadness of having to leave her is already starting to set in.
We have spring break starting on Friday and I am beyond ready for a break. I am going to Nice with Laurel and plan on doing nothing but lie on the beach. I need some sun.
Sunday, March 13, 2011
One French entry
À cause de ce qui m’attend ce soir, j’écris tous ce blog en français. Ce soir, il y a quatre amis d’Hélène qui viennent ici (y compris son fils) pour dîner. Ma camarade de chambre est à Prague donc, je suis toute seule. C’était un bon weekend sans elle, mais dans une situation comme ça, je voudrais qu’il y aura une autre personne pour faire référence s’il y a un problème avec compréhension. Bref, j’essayerai et je parlerai ma meilleure française.
Nous avons fini les examens de mi-semestre cette semaine. C’était la semaine la plus stressant que j’ai eu en tous ce voyage. Je n’ai pas les examens beaucoup à Whitman parce que j’écris des comptes-rendus le plus souvent. J’ai eu 4 examens cette semaine dernière et tous en français ! C’était difficile. J’ai trouvé aussi que je suis obligé de donner un présentation de 30 minutes pour mon cours a l’institut catholique, devant une classe des étudiants élites et français ! Aidez-moi ! Nous devons présenter sur un sujet que la prof nous a donné. Mon sujet ? Les pouvoirs présidentiels dans les lois constitutionnelles en 1875. Mon dieu. Priez pour moi.
Sur une note plus léger, vendredi, je suis allée à la ville de Reims. C’est le centre de la production de champagne et le lieu de l’église Notre Dame de Reims. Notre Dame de Reims était là pour presque 800 années. Il est plus ancien, plus large et plus orna que Notre Dame de Paris. Mais, dedans, il y des fenêtres en verre souillées par Marc Chagall. Ensuite, nous sommes allées à un bon déjeuner de potage aux légumes, rôti de porc et crème caramel. Après, nous avons reçu un excursion de la maison Pommery, un producteur de champagnes. C’était très intéressant et délicieux. Quand nous sommes parties de Reims, nous avons vu la maison de Veuve Clicquot et Moët. C’a été une bonne journée.
Hier, je suis allée à Berthillon, la plus célèbre producteur de la glace à Paris. Et maintenant je sais pourquoi. C'était la meilleure crème glacée que j'ai jamais eue. C’est naturel aussi !
J’aime les Parisiennes et les Français mais, j’ai noté qu’ils sont les moins politiquement correcte gens en tout le monde. C’est génial de porter la fourrure, ce soir Hélène est en train de faire un plat traditionnel français avec le veau et ils mangent le fois gras tous le temps. Il me fait un peu inconfortable, mais je dois accepter que ça, c’est leur culture. Mais, je suis heureuse parce qu’Hélène fait du lapin pour dîner demain soir et j’aime beaucoup le lapin.
C’est tout pour maintenant. À tout à l’heure !
Nous avons fini les examens de mi-semestre cette semaine. C’était la semaine la plus stressant que j’ai eu en tous ce voyage. Je n’ai pas les examens beaucoup à Whitman parce que j’écris des comptes-rendus le plus souvent. J’ai eu 4 examens cette semaine dernière et tous en français ! C’était difficile. J’ai trouvé aussi que je suis obligé de donner un présentation de 30 minutes pour mon cours a l’institut catholique, devant une classe des étudiants élites et français ! Aidez-moi ! Nous devons présenter sur un sujet que la prof nous a donné. Mon sujet ? Les pouvoirs présidentiels dans les lois constitutionnelles en 1875. Mon dieu. Priez pour moi.
Sur une note plus léger, vendredi, je suis allée à la ville de Reims. C’est le centre de la production de champagne et le lieu de l’église Notre Dame de Reims. Notre Dame de Reims était là pour presque 800 années. Il est plus ancien, plus large et plus orna que Notre Dame de Paris. Mais, dedans, il y des fenêtres en verre souillées par Marc Chagall. Ensuite, nous sommes allées à un bon déjeuner de potage aux légumes, rôti de porc et crème caramel. Après, nous avons reçu un excursion de la maison Pommery, un producteur de champagnes. C’était très intéressant et délicieux. Quand nous sommes parties de Reims, nous avons vu la maison de Veuve Clicquot et Moët. C’a été une bonne journée.
Hier, je suis allée à Berthillon, la plus célèbre producteur de la glace à Paris. Et maintenant je sais pourquoi. C'était la meilleure crème glacée que j'ai jamais eue. C’est naturel aussi !
J’aime les Parisiennes et les Français mais, j’ai noté qu’ils sont les moins politiquement correcte gens en tout le monde. C’est génial de porter la fourrure, ce soir Hélène est en train de faire un plat traditionnel français avec le veau et ils mangent le fois gras tous le temps. Il me fait un peu inconfortable, mais je dois accepter que ça, c’est leur culture. Mais, je suis heureuse parce qu’Hélène fait du lapin pour dîner demain soir et j’aime beaucoup le lapin.
C’est tout pour maintenant. À tout à l’heure !
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Fashion Week: the good, the bad and the ugly
As the tents and trailers and models and cameras rolled in this week for the Pret-a-porter shows, so did the tourists, the closed lanes and the traffic. Two lessons learned: allow 25 extra minutes minimum to get anywhere and always carry a camera. Just to scratch the surface of what I have seen this week: the skinniest women in the world, sky-high heels, fur coats and one silver metallic fingerless glove. But who am I to complain-I get to be in Paris for Fashion Week.
On Thursday morning we arose at 6:30 to see the sunrise at the Sacre Coeur- a church up on a hill which overlooks all of Paris. The weather had been clear all week so we thought the conditions were optimal. Regardless of the freezing cold, I think this is a necessary adventure for anyone visiting Paris. It was absolutely stunning and it lacked all the peddlers and crazy people who normally hang out in Montmartre. Outside the sunrise was glorious as was the church inside. Wonderfully peaceful, it was a fantastic way to start the day. Much to our surprise, the church still has a group of nuns (full habit-wearing nuns) who practice in the church and live next door. While we were walking through the ambulatory of the church, they were on the altar praying and then started singing. It was quite magical. After the sun had risen, we went to have breakfast in the Marais and got to school in time for our first class. All in all a very productive morning.
Friday, two high school friends came into town so I met them at the train station and took them to their hotel. It felt nice to actually be the knowledgeable one for once. Saturday we explored the area around the eiffel tower which I had not done yet. We didn't climb it because Paris on Saturdays is mind-blowingly crowded. I showed them the Champs-Elysees, Hotel des Invalides and the Louvre.
Today, Laurel and I went to a flea market. Suffice to say, I cannot let myself go every weekend or I will completely blow my budget. They are so cool! Everything from old prints, to clothes, to street signs and dishes. Everything you could every want, really. I got a beautiful antique map, shell dish and a silver egg cup. One stand had a vintage Chanel bag for 1500 euro. yikes. Tonight, Helene made dinner for Sonia's birthday which was on Thursday. I think it was one of the most French meals I have had so far.
Midterms start this week. Oh no....
Notable Meals:
Sunday
Lunch: Mushroom and cheese crepe from a stand at the flea market. So amazingly delicious. Galettes (savory crepes) are made out of buckwheat flour instead of white and have a rich, earth taste. With the mushrooms and cheese it was absolutely etherial. And only 3.50 euro
Dinner:
Salad of spinach and arugula with shrimp and mushrooms with Thomas's famous balsamic vinaigrette.
Boeuf bourguignon with polenta. (I had never had this dish, though I have heard so much about it. It fulfilled all of my dreams about it)
Chocolate fondue.
During dinner Helene was asking if we ever ate lamb or rabbit, which of course I said yes, so she said she will make her rabbit ragu with gnocci soon. I cannot wait.
On Thursday morning we arose at 6:30 to see the sunrise at the Sacre Coeur- a church up on a hill which overlooks all of Paris. The weather had been clear all week so we thought the conditions were optimal. Regardless of the freezing cold, I think this is a necessary adventure for anyone visiting Paris. It was absolutely stunning and it lacked all the peddlers and crazy people who normally hang out in Montmartre. Outside the sunrise was glorious as was the church inside. Wonderfully peaceful, it was a fantastic way to start the day. Much to our surprise, the church still has a group of nuns (full habit-wearing nuns) who practice in the church and live next door. While we were walking through the ambulatory of the church, they were on the altar praying and then started singing. It was quite magical. After the sun had risen, we went to have breakfast in the Marais and got to school in time for our first class. All in all a very productive morning.
Friday, two high school friends came into town so I met them at the train station and took them to their hotel. It felt nice to actually be the knowledgeable one for once. Saturday we explored the area around the eiffel tower which I had not done yet. We didn't climb it because Paris on Saturdays is mind-blowingly crowded. I showed them the Champs-Elysees, Hotel des Invalides and the Louvre.
Today, Laurel and I went to a flea market. Suffice to say, I cannot let myself go every weekend or I will completely blow my budget. They are so cool! Everything from old prints, to clothes, to street signs and dishes. Everything you could every want, really. I got a beautiful antique map, shell dish and a silver egg cup. One stand had a vintage Chanel bag for 1500 euro. yikes. Tonight, Helene made dinner for Sonia's birthday which was on Thursday. I think it was one of the most French meals I have had so far.
Midterms start this week. Oh no....
Notable Meals:
Sunday
Lunch: Mushroom and cheese crepe from a stand at the flea market. So amazingly delicious. Galettes (savory crepes) are made out of buckwheat flour instead of white and have a rich, earth taste. With the mushrooms and cheese it was absolutely etherial. And only 3.50 euro
Dinner:
Salad of spinach and arugula with shrimp and mushrooms with Thomas's famous balsamic vinaigrette.
Boeuf bourguignon with polenta. (I had never had this dish, though I have heard so much about it. It fulfilled all of my dreams about it)
Chocolate fondue.
During dinner Helene was asking if we ever ate lamb or rabbit, which of course I said yes, so she said she will make her rabbit ragu with gnocci soon. I cannot wait.
Monday, February 28, 2011
Dinner with friends, Louis Vuitton and OFII adventures
Though is was largely and uneventful weekend, it did have some notable nuggets. My host mom was out of town and it was actually nice to have the apartment to ourselves. I had some friends over for a relaxing dinner on Friday night. We made fajitas and just sat around laughing. On Saturday, Sunni and I went to Musee Carnavalet in the Marais. While the actual works of art housed in this museum are not that exciting (the theme of the museum is Parisienne history), the building itself is an old mansion. It is absolutely beautiful and sort of crazy that it used to be someone's house. The real reason we went was because it was the last weekend of the Louis Vuitton exhibit. Vuitton is not actually one of my favorite designers, but the exhibit was fascinating. It documented how and where he got his start and went through his career and his legacy. They had some of the original trunks and pieces from each decade. It was quite awesome.
This week commenced with our OFII appointments. In order to stay in France for more than three months, one must have an appointment at l'Office Francais de l'immigration et l'integration. This appointment consists of lots of paper work, a quick chat with a nurse, measurements, eye check and a chest x-ray. Basically, they want to make sure you aren't spreading tuberculosis around the country. One of the weirdest parts is that they let you keep the x-ray. So, I now how a sizable x-ray of my lungs. Alright...new wall decoration? The most annoying part is that they make you pay 55 euros to put this great big sticker in your passport. The French make you pay for everything. At least it was good to know I'm nice and healthy. And aside from asking the desk manager if I was dead instead of if I was finished, the appointment went without a hitch.
In addition to delicious pastries, every boulangerie produces fresh meringues everyday. I have taken to sampling ones that look good and trying to find the best blend of crispy outside and chewy inside. I have yet to find the perfection I am looking for.
Erin and Bianca are coming into town next weekend and I can't wait! And the weather report shows straight sun!
This week commenced with our OFII appointments. In order to stay in France for more than three months, one must have an appointment at l'Office Francais de l'immigration et l'integration. This appointment consists of lots of paper work, a quick chat with a nurse, measurements, eye check and a chest x-ray. Basically, they want to make sure you aren't spreading tuberculosis around the country. One of the weirdest parts is that they let you keep the x-ray. So, I now how a sizable x-ray of my lungs. Alright...new wall decoration? The most annoying part is that they make you pay 55 euros to put this great big sticker in your passport. The French make you pay for everything. At least it was good to know I'm nice and healthy. And aside from asking the desk manager if I was dead instead of if I was finished, the appointment went without a hitch.
In addition to delicious pastries, every boulangerie produces fresh meringues everyday. I have taken to sampling ones that look good and trying to find the best blend of crispy outside and chewy inside. I have yet to find the perfection I am looking for.
Erin and Bianca are coming into town next weekend and I can't wait! And the weather report shows straight sun!
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Bon Weekend Parisienne
There is nothing like spending a weekend with old friends like Monet, Raphael, DaVinci, Caravaggio and Praxiteles and new friends like Laurel Rory Mitchell. This weekend commenced Friday morning with a rendez-vous in the Marais with Sunni and Laurel to get falafels and explore. Suffice to say, best falafels of my life...see explanation below. After a long walk along rue de Rivoli past the Hotel de Ville, the Louvre and Notre Dame in the distance, we wandered into Musée de l'Orangerie. Knowing in advance that it housed Monet's "Water Lilies" I enjoyed their glory and was wonderfully calmed by their presence, but one of the best things about Paris? There is always a famous piece of art lurking around the corner. We continued to explore the museum further and found that it houses the majority of the high impressionist painters like Renoir, Matisse, Cezanne, Picasso the list goes on and on. Among them, one of my favorite impressionist works, "Deux Filles au Piano" by Renoir
After a wonderful day of culture, I joined Laurel and her visiting parents that evening for dinner at La Gare. A train station turned restaurant located in the 16th Arrondissment of Paris. The building itself was a joy to behold. In the summer, the ceiling opens up so the patrons can dine "en pleine aire". The food was delicious as well.
Saturday poured rain all day long without stopping. Thus, I started the day off with a gym visit, some shopping and then lazing around the house. Helene has commenced to calling me one of three things: the most common is "la grande sportive" considering I am the only one of the two of us who works out. The next to are interchangeable: cuckoo or ma belle. I like ma belle, but I cannot speak to the reason for cuckoo.
Sunday, I woke up and headed to the Louvre toute-seule. The bus that stops right outside of our apartment goes straight to the Louvre so it is a very easy trip. My French student ID gets me into virtually any museum for free so I just spent my morning exploring the first of three wings of the Louvre. I could never have imagined the immense size of this museum. I decided to start with the most popular of the three because it wasn't crowded. This wing of the Louvre holds the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, the Louvre two most famous works. However, upon mounting the stairs I was greeted by a lovely surprise. Never had I known that the Louvre houses my second favorite sculpture the Nike of Samothrace (only second to the Artemision Zeus, housed in Athens). It was a grand surprise.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the Mona Lisa. I have heard for so long that it is unexciting, even ugly in person; Small and dark. It, however, is not as small as people have made it out to be. She is quite lovely actually. If it hadn't been surrounded by a crowd, I would have lingered in front of it longer. I could have spent hours wandering around the museum, but Laurel pulled me back to reality for tea at Ladurée. I think this is something everyone should experience once in their life. Simply exquisite pastries, with actual flavor, a rare occurrence is works of art. It's sort of like disneyland for tea, but so much fun.
Notable Meals:
Friday-
Lunch: Shwarma and Falafel (we all split) at L'As du Falafel. There are no words, just the best of everything
Dinner at La Gare
-Pumpkin soup over baby greens with parmesan/prosciutto crouton. Great flavor, could have been a bit hotter
-Barbet over roasted chestnuts in a spinach puree with sauteed chanterelles. Ethereal
-Chocolate cake with banana caramel ice cream and a homemade marshmallow. Marshmallow was amazing, dessert was trumped by another dessert. Mirabelle and pear crumble.
Sunday:
Helene made chili and cornbread! And a truly delicious chili and cornbread at that. Super spicy with nice big chunks of bell pepper and kidney beans.
After a wonderful day of culture, I joined Laurel and her visiting parents that evening for dinner at La Gare. A train station turned restaurant located in the 16th Arrondissment of Paris. The building itself was a joy to behold. In the summer, the ceiling opens up so the patrons can dine "en pleine aire". The food was delicious as well.
Saturday poured rain all day long without stopping. Thus, I started the day off with a gym visit, some shopping and then lazing around the house. Helene has commenced to calling me one of three things: the most common is "la grande sportive" considering I am the only one of the two of us who works out. The next to are interchangeable: cuckoo or ma belle. I like ma belle, but I cannot speak to the reason for cuckoo.
Sunday, I woke up and headed to the Louvre toute-seule. The bus that stops right outside of our apartment goes straight to the Louvre so it is a very easy trip. My French student ID gets me into virtually any museum for free so I just spent my morning exploring the first of three wings of the Louvre. I could never have imagined the immense size of this museum. I decided to start with the most popular of the three because it wasn't crowded. This wing of the Louvre holds the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, the Louvre two most famous works. However, upon mounting the stairs I was greeted by a lovely surprise. Never had I known that the Louvre houses my second favorite sculpture the Nike of Samothrace (only second to the Artemision Zeus, housed in Athens). It was a grand surprise.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the Mona Lisa. I have heard for so long that it is unexciting, even ugly in person; Small and dark. It, however, is not as small as people have made it out to be. She is quite lovely actually. If it hadn't been surrounded by a crowd, I would have lingered in front of it longer. I could have spent hours wandering around the museum, but Laurel pulled me back to reality for tea at Ladurée. I think this is something everyone should experience once in their life. Simply exquisite pastries, with actual flavor, a rare occurrence is works of art. It's sort of like disneyland for tea, but so much fun.
Notable Meals:
Friday-
Lunch: Shwarma and Falafel (we all split) at L'As du Falafel. There are no words, just the best of everything
Dinner at La Gare
-Pumpkin soup over baby greens with parmesan/prosciutto crouton. Great flavor, could have been a bit hotter
-Barbet over roasted chestnuts in a spinach puree with sauteed chanterelles. Ethereal
-Chocolate cake with banana caramel ice cream and a homemade marshmallow. Marshmallow was amazing, dessert was trumped by another dessert. Mirabelle and pear crumble.
Sunday:
Helene made chili and cornbread! And a truly delicious chili and cornbread at that. Super spicy with nice big chunks of bell pepper and kidney beans.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Weekend Update
Friday:
A truly gorgeous day in Paris, started off the morning by going to Basilique St. Denis in the north with my Art and Architecture class. This church, a good deal older than Notre Dame, houses all of the tombs of the early French kings beginning in the 4th century spanning to the Revolution. It was both eerie and fascinating at the same time. All of the crypt is still intact.
After that, Sunni, Laurel and I went to a Japanese restaurant right by school. It is now one of my new favorite places. Very well priced, it reminds me very much of Asahi Ramen back home. After lunch was a visit to Le Petit Palais to do research for my language class. We were required to go see the photography exhibit of Pierre and Alexandra Boulat. This exhibit contrasts the work of Pierre Boulat and his daughter Alexandra beginning in the 50s and continuing with her work after his death. It was such an interesting show. Monsieur Boulat's photographs are truly awe inspiring. He photographed Paris during occupation, many famous New York stars in the 60s and even documented the first couture show of Yves Saint Laurent. His daughter's photographs, while spectacular as well, did not hold the same allure for me as her father's perhaps because they were mostly present day pictures. After the museum we walked along the Champs Elysee, which I had never done. Admittedly it was beautiful, but I am not one for the major touristy activities; it was kind of like Disneyland.
Saturday:
Woke up bright and early. Headed to the gym for a quick 6K then explored our local outdoor market. Being a true Santa Monica native, I love our farmers market but it does not hold a candle to this one. While it is a bit smaller, it has an astounding selection. Everything from produce to multiple fish stands, meat vendors selling every cut of meat imaginable including whole pigs ears, mushrooms, nuts, sweet meats, honey, eggs, clothes and the list goes on and on. It was so fun to go and explore something the United States would never allow because of all the health regulations. At 5, Laurel and I went to see Black Swan. I had already seen it, but she wanted to and I didn't mind seeing it again. I'll tell you, going to the cinema in Paris is very worth the experience and I would do it again. The huge theater is right across the street from l'Opera de Paris. It is less expensive to get a ticket and popcorn than it is to buy one ticket in LA. Not only is the price right, the theater is lovely! Spacious, comfy seating and clean. For dinner, we went to Les Pietons Laurel's tapas bar (she was here last semester). New. Favorite. Place. The food is fantastic, it is affordable, the staff is absolutely lovely, great music and the Sangria is the best I have ever tasted.
Sunday:
I had a nice lazy day today. The gym is closed on Sundays so that is my day off. I do enjoy giggling at the differences between my parents and Helene and Thomas sometimes. For example, on the weekends H & T will frequently make a pot of coffee and lie in bed lounging until noon. My parents are up and at 'em by 9..no later. Helene's friend from her theater group came over for dinner. We had a lovely time discussing all the museums we must go to while in Paris. In addition, we got to see some of Helene's actress-side displayed. I can assure you it was quite a treat.
I had a very reassuring weekend. I received two compliments on my French speaking abilities. One was from our neighbor, an elderly man who, after about 6 minutes of conversation, told me I speak very well. Another from a couple of girls we met a the Tapas place on Saturday. We were talking to them about how long we had been here etc and one girl looked at me and said (in french) "You've only been here a month?? How long have you been taking French? You speak so well!" Coming from a Parisian, I was pleased. Hurrah!
Notable Meals (and food):
Thursday:
-My friend Laurel was showing me around the new mall Printemps. We stopped in and split one of the delicious concoctions I have ever tasted. It was from the famous macaron bakery, La Duree. Called a St Honoré, It was a pate a chou base, pumped with a bit of raspberry jam, with rose flavored whipped cream on top and raspberries. I'm pretty positive it was a little piece of heaven.
Saturday:
Tapas included:
-very yummy olives
-one of the most flavorful gazpachos I've ever had
-country bread with avocado and Serrano ham
-croquette
Sunday:
-my favorite pumpkin soup of Helene's invention
-a sort of shepherd's pie but duck instead of beef-amazing. the duck was cooked and seasoned to perfection, then came a layer of tiny chopped carrots, then topped with a puree of potatoes and some parsnip covered with breadcrumbs and baked. delish
-confit of oranges, cooked in honey, candied ginger and sugar. Absolutely amazing. Sort of a more flavorful version of the pre-stage of mom's candied orange peel.
A truly gorgeous day in Paris, started off the morning by going to Basilique St. Denis in the north with my Art and Architecture class. This church, a good deal older than Notre Dame, houses all of the tombs of the early French kings beginning in the 4th century spanning to the Revolution. It was both eerie and fascinating at the same time. All of the crypt is still intact.
After that, Sunni, Laurel and I went to a Japanese restaurant right by school. It is now one of my new favorite places. Very well priced, it reminds me very much of Asahi Ramen back home. After lunch was a visit to Le Petit Palais to do research for my language class. We were required to go see the photography exhibit of Pierre and Alexandra Boulat. This exhibit contrasts the work of Pierre Boulat and his daughter Alexandra beginning in the 50s and continuing with her work after his death. It was such an interesting show. Monsieur Boulat's photographs are truly awe inspiring. He photographed Paris during occupation, many famous New York stars in the 60s and even documented the first couture show of Yves Saint Laurent. His daughter's photographs, while spectacular as well, did not hold the same allure for me as her father's perhaps because they were mostly present day pictures. After the museum we walked along the Champs Elysee, which I had never done. Admittedly it was beautiful, but I am not one for the major touristy activities; it was kind of like Disneyland.
Saturday:
Woke up bright and early. Headed to the gym for a quick 6K then explored our local outdoor market. Being a true Santa Monica native, I love our farmers market but it does not hold a candle to this one. While it is a bit smaller, it has an astounding selection. Everything from produce to multiple fish stands, meat vendors selling every cut of meat imaginable including whole pigs ears, mushrooms, nuts, sweet meats, honey, eggs, clothes and the list goes on and on. It was so fun to go and explore something the United States would never allow because of all the health regulations. At 5, Laurel and I went to see Black Swan. I had already seen it, but she wanted to and I didn't mind seeing it again. I'll tell you, going to the cinema in Paris is very worth the experience and I would do it again. The huge theater is right across the street from l'Opera de Paris. It is less expensive to get a ticket and popcorn than it is to buy one ticket in LA. Not only is the price right, the theater is lovely! Spacious, comfy seating and clean. For dinner, we went to Les Pietons Laurel's tapas bar (she was here last semester). New. Favorite. Place. The food is fantastic, it is affordable, the staff is absolutely lovely, great music and the Sangria is the best I have ever tasted.
Sunday:
I had a nice lazy day today. The gym is closed on Sundays so that is my day off. I do enjoy giggling at the differences between my parents and Helene and Thomas sometimes. For example, on the weekends H & T will frequently make a pot of coffee and lie in bed lounging until noon. My parents are up and at 'em by 9..no later. Helene's friend from her theater group came over for dinner. We had a lovely time discussing all the museums we must go to while in Paris. In addition, we got to see some of Helene's actress-side displayed. I can assure you it was quite a treat.
I had a very reassuring weekend. I received two compliments on my French speaking abilities. One was from our neighbor, an elderly man who, after about 6 minutes of conversation, told me I speak very well. Another from a couple of girls we met a the Tapas place on Saturday. We were talking to them about how long we had been here etc and one girl looked at me and said (in french) "You've only been here a month?? How long have you been taking French? You speak so well!" Coming from a Parisian, I was pleased. Hurrah!
Notable Meals (and food):
Thursday:
-My friend Laurel was showing me around the new mall Printemps. We stopped in and split one of the delicious concoctions I have ever tasted. It was from the famous macaron bakery, La Duree. Called a St Honoré, It was a pate a chou base, pumped with a bit of raspberry jam, with rose flavored whipped cream on top and raspberries. I'm pretty positive it was a little piece of heaven.
Saturday:
Tapas included:
-very yummy olives
-one of the most flavorful gazpachos I've ever had
-country bread with avocado and Serrano ham
-croquette
Sunday:
-my favorite pumpkin soup of Helene's invention
-a sort of shepherd's pie but duck instead of beef-amazing. the duck was cooked and seasoned to perfection, then came a layer of tiny chopped carrots, then topped with a puree of potatoes and some parsnip covered with breadcrumbs and baked. delish
-confit of oranges, cooked in honey, candied ginger and sugar. Absolutely amazing. Sort of a more flavorful version of the pre-stage of mom's candied orange peel.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
1 Month!
I have officially been away from home for one month. It both feels longer and shorter than that time. One one hand I feel like I have been away forever however, on the other I already feel pressure to step up my exploring game. The one thing I don't want is to leave here without accomplishing my bucket list!
We went to the Louvre for my art history class today, I had never been. It was absolutely incredible and we only saw a very small part of the sculpture department. It is such a privilege because we get to just come back next week and go through all the sculpture we have not yet covered in class. I really could not get over the building much less the art. The set up of the building and the contrast between IM Pei's modern Pyramid and the old architecture is stunning. I cannot wait to go back. My art history student id card gets me into any museum for free!
Little things about this culture always make me giggle. Even grocery shopping is amusing. They also seem to celebrate food than many other cultures. Monday was European Nutella day and this month seems to be Brioche month, last month was Galette des Rois month. Every bakery that was making all kinds of Galettes des Rois last month is cooking up all shapes, sizes, and flavors of Brioche. Apparently there is a different type of brioche for every region.
Notable Meals:
Only in France would your host mother serve you a crepe casserole made with buckwheat crepes, mushrooms, ham and cheese. It sounds weird but it was so tasty.
We went to the Louvre for my art history class today, I had never been. It was absolutely incredible and we only saw a very small part of the sculpture department. It is such a privilege because we get to just come back next week and go through all the sculpture we have not yet covered in class. I really could not get over the building much less the art. The set up of the building and the contrast between IM Pei's modern Pyramid and the old architecture is stunning. I cannot wait to go back. My art history student id card gets me into any museum for free!
Little things about this culture always make me giggle. Even grocery shopping is amusing. They also seem to celebrate food than many other cultures. Monday was European Nutella day and this month seems to be Brioche month, last month was Galette des Rois month. Every bakery that was making all kinds of Galettes des Rois last month is cooking up all shapes, sizes, and flavors of Brioche. Apparently there is a different type of brioche for every region.
Notable Meals:
Only in France would your host mother serve you a crepe casserole made with buckwheat crepes, mushrooms, ham and cheese. It sounds weird but it was so tasty.
Monday, February 7, 2011
la nouvelle année chinois (et multiculturelle??)
We changed it up this weekend and decided to go to a tiny jazz club right near Notre Dame. It was fabulous. Down a narrow stone staircase to a small cavernous, packed room. We were seated right the very front. The atmosphere was lively and the music was great.
Sunday, we went to Place d'Italie for the Chinese New Year parade. Colorful and loud as hell, it definitely raised my spirits after a few days of homesickness. While the parade was Chinese dominated, there were definitely other cultures represented including a large portion of Caribbean descent. Never the less, it was entertaining. We finished up the afternoon with some fabulous Chinese food. Good to know one can find delicious, cheap, asian food in France.
I began by class at l'Institut Catholique today. Ca sera difficile. In other words, this is going to be quite a challenge. Taking a class with all French students is in no way the same experience as taking one with other international students. The professors speak at lighting speed and write very little on the board. Luckily, the other French students are very intrigued by us American students and are thus very willing to help. One student even gave me and another student the website on which he posts all his notes for the class. I'm sure that will be very helpful.
Today was the first fully sunny day in weeks... and I had class all day. Tragic. Oh well. Not much else to report!
Sunday, we went to Place d'Italie for the Chinese New Year parade. Colorful and loud as hell, it definitely raised my spirits after a few days of homesickness. While the parade was Chinese dominated, there were definitely other cultures represented including a large portion of Caribbean descent. Never the less, it was entertaining. We finished up the afternoon with some fabulous Chinese food. Good to know one can find delicious, cheap, asian food in France.
I began by class at l'Institut Catholique today. Ca sera difficile. In other words, this is going to be quite a challenge. Taking a class with all French students is in no way the same experience as taking one with other international students. The professors speak at lighting speed and write very little on the board. Luckily, the other French students are very intrigued by us American students and are thus very willing to help. One student even gave me and another student the website on which he posts all his notes for the class. I'm sure that will be very helpful.
Today was the first fully sunny day in weeks... and I had class all day. Tragic. Oh well. Not much else to report!
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Day 21: doubts? nah
As is bound to happen on any long trip, there comes those moments of doubt. Should I be doing this? Should I go home? Why am I here? Some of those moments came to me this week what with starting classes, getting the stomach flu, encountering language barriers and just flat out needing my mommy. You don't realize how different a country is until you get sick. Really.
However, having gotten nearly 20 hours of sleep in 24 hours, I awoke this morning feeling rested and nearly back to normal. I spent a day in classes, which were very engaging, and spent the day exploring on my own. While the little quirks of this city and its culture can be frustrating, they are also what gives it its charm. So with a new (and bonne santé) perspective, I press on excited to fall more in love with the city of lights. And instead of calling February 2nd groundhog day, the French know it as National Crêpe Day...what's better than that?
à bientôt!
However, having gotten nearly 20 hours of sleep in 24 hours, I awoke this morning feeling rested and nearly back to normal. I spent a day in classes, which were very engaging, and spent the day exploring on my own. While the little quirks of this city and its culture can be frustrating, they are also what gives it its charm. So with a new (and bonne santé) perspective, I press on excited to fall more in love with the city of lights. And instead of calling February 2nd groundhog day, the French know it as National Crêpe Day...what's better than that?
à bientôt!
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Je t'aime Helene, je t'aime
By far, the best dinner yet tonight. Helene's brother and his wife are in town from Provence so they came over for dinner. This was a true test of french ability and I seemed to do quite well. Helene and Thomas kept asking if they were speaking too fast, and miraculously they weren't. I think I understood about 85% of the conversation between the four of them.
We started out with white wine from Bourgogne and crackers with smoked salmon pate. After that, there was a wonderful soupe de poisson, yet it did not have chunks of fish. It was silky smooth and we put croutons, rouille and cheese on top.
Next came an enormous pot of steamed petit moules (mussels) in a fragrant broth. Helene and Thomas brought the mussels back from their trip to the coast yesterday. Thus, they were straight out of the ocean. Small and delicate, they were the exact opposite of those enormous, tough hunks of flesh normally served at seafood restaurants. We learned to eat mussels the French way. No forks or utensils involved. The only equipment used are your hands and mussel shells. Using the mussel shells like chopsticks, we pried the little guys out of their shells and popped them in our mouths. The mussels were served with a fresh mixed green salad, baked frites, and hot brown bread.
For dessert? Galette des Rois since it gets discontinued tomorrow as it will no longer be January. And who won the prize and got the glory of wearing the crown tonight? Yours truly. All in all, the perfect Sunday night dinner.
We started out with white wine from Bourgogne and crackers with smoked salmon pate. After that, there was a wonderful soupe de poisson, yet it did not have chunks of fish. It was silky smooth and we put croutons, rouille and cheese on top.
Next came an enormous pot of steamed petit moules (mussels) in a fragrant broth. Helene and Thomas brought the mussels back from their trip to the coast yesterday. Thus, they were straight out of the ocean. Small and delicate, they were the exact opposite of those enormous, tough hunks of flesh normally served at seafood restaurants. We learned to eat mussels the French way. No forks or utensils involved. The only equipment used are your hands and mussel shells. Using the mussel shells like chopsticks, we pried the little guys out of their shells and popped them in our mouths. The mussels were served with a fresh mixed green salad, baked frites, and hot brown bread.
For dessert? Galette des Rois since it gets discontinued tomorrow as it will no longer be January. And who won the prize and got the glory of wearing the crown tonight? Yours truly. All in all, the perfect Sunday night dinner.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Day 15: Week in review
Classes started this week so I have not had a minute to spare. That said, I am very excited about the classes I'm taking...mostly. Language is a requirement. Foreign Politics- sounds interesting. Paris francophone- this is basically about all the different french cultures and populations within Paris. We are also going to deal with French immigration issues and compare them to the US. Art and Architecture- definitely the class I am most excited about right now. I have always loved art history and the fact that I am in such close proximity to many of the pieces we will be studying is very exciting. My most daunting class which I have not yet began is a class at l'Institute Catholique de Paris called Constitutional History of France since Louis XVI...eek! It is nerve racking that all classes are in French, but the fact that that class is all French students not foreign makes it even scarier! Further updates will come once I have officially started.
I actually joined a gym around the corner from my apartment this week. Such a lifted weight (no pun intended). Not that running in my neighborhood wasn't great, but my lungs began to feel tar soaked. Surprisingly, French gyms are very similar...except for that everything is in kilograms and kilometers. Very confusing. But all the equipment is very up to date and clean.
I had a wonderful Friday. I got up, ran a quick 5K, had a lovely adventure in the Marais with Sunni, then had a wine tasting at the IES center. Just for the record, if I don't get on the plane home in May, I can most likely be discovered in the Marais. New life goal: live in an apartment near the place de Vosges. It is simply the cutest neighborhood EVER. Little apartments in beautiful buildings above lots of tiny stores and amazing hummus. However, we did learn that we are still adjusting to Parisian life. Case in point; after we had picked up amazing sandwiches from a Monoprix( (equivalent to Safeway) for 3 euros, we decided we would give the bus a shot. We found the right line and hopped on the next bus. We soon learned that it was headed in the wrong direction. No problem, we could get off and cross the street. 10 stops later we still couldn't figure out how to get off. We finally found the exit button and decided to just take the metro. Better luck next time.
The wine tasting was fabulous. It was run by a French woman who's job title is a culinary consultant. Um, possible new career option?? She was so knowledgeable and the wines were wonderful. We tasted a Pinot d'Alsace, a Chardonnay from Bourgogne, a Côtes du Rhône, and a Bordeaux. My favorite was definitely the Alsace and it happened to be organic, although the Côtes du Rhône was delicious as well. She taught us the proper way to observe, smell, taste and describe wine. Naturally, I ate it all up. We were also served chunks of baguette and a tasty Compte Fermier cheese along with the wines. She also recommended that in late April and early May we should have a meal that pairs wine from the Loir Valley with chevre from the same region because the goats are having babies so their milk is extra flavorful and the spring wines are just coming out. All in all it was a very good evening.
Saturday was wonderfully lazy, perhaps too much so. Sonia and I explored the Latin Quarter a bit to find our text books. Much to our chagrin none of our books were in stock. That has been one area of annoyance so far, customer service or lack there of. The French feel no hurry to do anything. Tips are included in prices, mail doesn't have to be delivered on time and university book stores don't exist. Oh well, that's just a difference I must get used to.
Notable Meals:
Monday:
-smoked Haddock over steamed cabbage: very tasty, a little too salty
-amazing almond meringue dessert cake: think pieces of merignue with almond mousse sandwiched in between. heavenly
Wednesday:
-Paella: yum. yum yum yum.
Friday:
-Monoprix sandwich: pumpernickel baguette with lots of whole grains, smoked salmon, cream cheese, lettuce and tomato
-mocha from McDonalds: don't judge. McDonalds here is so different. It is actually respected. Very nice atmosphere and decor. Good quality food and mostly coffee. Their coffee is actually delicious.
I actually joined a gym around the corner from my apartment this week. Such a lifted weight (no pun intended). Not that running in my neighborhood wasn't great, but my lungs began to feel tar soaked. Surprisingly, French gyms are very similar...except for that everything is in kilograms and kilometers. Very confusing. But all the equipment is very up to date and clean.
I had a wonderful Friday. I got up, ran a quick 5K, had a lovely adventure in the Marais with Sunni, then had a wine tasting at the IES center. Just for the record, if I don't get on the plane home in May, I can most likely be discovered in the Marais. New life goal: live in an apartment near the place de Vosges. It is simply the cutest neighborhood EVER. Little apartments in beautiful buildings above lots of tiny stores and amazing hummus. However, we did learn that we are still adjusting to Parisian life. Case in point; after we had picked up amazing sandwiches from a Monoprix( (equivalent to Safeway) for 3 euros, we decided we would give the bus a shot. We found the right line and hopped on the next bus. We soon learned that it was headed in the wrong direction. No problem, we could get off and cross the street. 10 stops later we still couldn't figure out how to get off. We finally found the exit button and decided to just take the metro. Better luck next time.
The wine tasting was fabulous. It was run by a French woman who's job title is a culinary consultant. Um, possible new career option?? She was so knowledgeable and the wines were wonderful. We tasted a Pinot d'Alsace, a Chardonnay from Bourgogne, a Côtes du Rhône, and a Bordeaux. My favorite was definitely the Alsace and it happened to be organic, although the Côtes du Rhône was delicious as well. She taught us the proper way to observe, smell, taste and describe wine. Naturally, I ate it all up. We were also served chunks of baguette and a tasty Compte Fermier cheese along with the wines. She also recommended that in late April and early May we should have a meal that pairs wine from the Loir Valley with chevre from the same region because the goats are having babies so their milk is extra flavorful and the spring wines are just coming out. All in all it was a very good evening.
Saturday was wonderfully lazy, perhaps too much so. Sonia and I explored the Latin Quarter a bit to find our text books. Much to our chagrin none of our books were in stock. That has been one area of annoyance so far, customer service or lack there of. The French feel no hurry to do anything. Tips are included in prices, mail doesn't have to be delivered on time and university book stores don't exist. Oh well, that's just a difference I must get used to.
Notable Meals:
Monday:
-smoked Haddock over steamed cabbage: very tasty, a little too salty
-amazing almond meringue dessert cake: think pieces of merignue with almond mousse sandwiched in between. heavenly
Wednesday:
-Paella: yum. yum yum yum.
Friday:
-Monoprix sandwich: pumpernickel baguette with lots of whole grains, smoked salmon, cream cheese, lettuce and tomato
-mocha from McDonalds: don't judge. McDonalds here is so different. It is actually respected. Very nice atmosphere and decor. Good quality food and mostly coffee. Their coffee is actually delicious.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Day 11 continued: the birthday FEAST
Well Helene Maurice truly went overboard tonight. Not only did she prepare an absolutely fabulous meal, she got me a present which she should not have done! It is a book of Monet's history at Giverny through food. Apparently, Monet loved to cook and based much of the design of his house around his kitchen. The book also includes recipes of his own invention. It is scary how well she knows me already. It's a truly remarkable book. On to the menu:
First course: spinach and arugula salad with balsamic dressing, homemade bread with raisins, goat cheese and mint. It was truly unlike anything I have ever tasted. It had a texture similar to panettone, a bit more crumbly and a very mild flavor. It struck me as a sort of French Irish soda bread but not as heavy or buttery as soda bread, but used for the same purpose. So delish.
Main Course:
-Filet Mignon en croute- I am not one for red meat or things of this sort but it was truly spectacular. Cooked to perfection, the crust had tons of herbs and the flavor was fantastic.
-pureed carrots
-mashed potatoes
-spiced, stewed apples
Dessert:
Chocolate fondue with: apples, bananas, pears, kiwi, tangerine, marshmallows, and cubes of cake in which she inserted candles.
I am truly stuffed, but it was a phenomenal birthday feast.
First course: spinach and arugula salad with balsamic dressing, homemade bread with raisins, goat cheese and mint. It was truly unlike anything I have ever tasted. It had a texture similar to panettone, a bit more crumbly and a very mild flavor. It struck me as a sort of French Irish soda bread but not as heavy or buttery as soda bread, but used for the same purpose. So delish.
Main Course:
-Filet Mignon en croute- I am not one for red meat or things of this sort but it was truly spectacular. Cooked to perfection, the crust had tons of herbs and the flavor was fantastic.
-pureed carrots
-mashed potatoes
-spiced, stewed apples
Dessert:
Chocolate fondue with: apples, bananas, pears, kiwi, tangerine, marshmallows, and cubes of cake in which she inserted candles.
I am truly stuffed, but it was a phenomenal birthday feast.
Day 11: Weekend Update
Part of the reason I love this city is because you can be walking in an average looking neighborhood something beautiful is always lurking around the corner. For example, I went on a walk to the mall yesterday (which is the most beautiful mall I have ever seen. really it looks like a church) and I came upon these:
There are also little things about Paris that you would NEVER see in the US. It's to be expected that everyone carries a Longchamp bag, then you see a mid 20s guy in a cafe with a Longchamp computer case. I have also managed to sniff out a completely organic boulangerie/patisserie...and I literally mean sniff. A wonderful scent caught my nostrils on the way to class one day and I happened upon a very extensive bakery and it happened to be organic. I got an absolutely fabulous financier but I am itching to try their apricot brioche.
So on our first day, Helene served amazing french macarons sent to her by a company who's cookbook she had been the lead publisher on. I realize now that the bakery was La Duree, the most famous macarons in Paris. Pretty awesome that she is responsible for that book.
We all went out to celebrate my birthday last night. The intended restaurant apparently requires reservations which the Zagat guide failed to mention. However, we are definitely going back. It smelled too good. No big though, we just crossed the street kitty corner to Pause Cafe and it was delicious. The food was good, the atmosphere was festive and the service was very prompt (a very rare discovery in Paris). After that we went to the Bastille. An area conveniently close to us with lots of little bars on a tiny cobblestone street with no cars...very European. We ended up befriending the professional basketball team from, get this, Biarritz which I found very amusing considering my studies there. They got the whole place to sing to me; that is certainly one rendition of "joyeux anniversaire" I will never forget.
Helene is cooking a special birthday dinner for me tonight. Menu t.b.a. I know there is chocolate fondue involved.
Notable meals:
Pause cafe:
Salade Italienne: mixed greens tossed in a wonderful creamy lemon dressing. Prosciutto, mozzarella, olive tapenade (with anchovies...delish), parmesan and a marinated artichoke.
Dense choco cake split 3 ways with candles.
Mango Mojito: best drink I've had so far. I know it didn't at all go with my meal but I get a bday free pass.
There are also little things about Paris that you would NEVER see in the US. It's to be expected that everyone carries a Longchamp bag, then you see a mid 20s guy in a cafe with a Longchamp computer case. I have also managed to sniff out a completely organic boulangerie/patisserie...and I literally mean sniff. A wonderful scent caught my nostrils on the way to class one day and I happened upon a very extensive bakery and it happened to be organic. I got an absolutely fabulous financier but I am itching to try their apricot brioche.
So on our first day, Helene served amazing french macarons sent to her by a company who's cookbook she had been the lead publisher on. I realize now that the bakery was La Duree, the most famous macarons in Paris. Pretty awesome that she is responsible for that book.
We all went out to celebrate my birthday last night. The intended restaurant apparently requires reservations which the Zagat guide failed to mention. However, we are definitely going back. It smelled too good. No big though, we just crossed the street kitty corner to Pause Cafe and it was delicious. The food was good, the atmosphere was festive and the service was very prompt (a very rare discovery in Paris). After that we went to the Bastille. An area conveniently close to us with lots of little bars on a tiny cobblestone street with no cars...very European. We ended up befriending the professional basketball team from, get this, Biarritz which I found very amusing considering my studies there. They got the whole place to sing to me; that is certainly one rendition of "joyeux anniversaire" I will never forget.
Helene is cooking a special birthday dinner for me tonight. Menu t.b.a. I know there is chocolate fondue involved.
Notable meals:
Pause cafe:
Salade Italienne: mixed greens tossed in a wonderful creamy lemon dressing. Prosciutto, mozzarella, olive tapenade (with anchovies...delish), parmesan and a marinated artichoke.
Dense choco cake split 3 ways with candles.
Mango Mojito: best drink I've had so far. I know it didn't at all go with my meal but I get a bday free pass.
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Day 8: could this week BE any longer?
Not that I'm not enjoying every minute of it, but this same two hour class everyday is getting quite tedious. Though I will say that I managed to write a 550 word essay in record time... perhaps my French is improving? And I noted today that the snow ball has started: I have begun to think in French. While this is a cause for celebration, it is also quite annoying. Due to the fact that I'm not fluent, it makes thinking a much slower process. I must pause to think of the word in French when I could just continue in English!
Attempted shopping today, but on account of the freezing wind, we gave up rather quickly.
Meal:
Madame only cooks for us Sunday through Tuesday so we fend for ourselves the other days. I have rather missed our little family dinners the last two nights. That said I made a wonderful salad tonight. Fresh greens and avocado tossed with some olive oil and red wine vinegar topped with slices of gouda and rolled up salami. Picked up a fresh baguette on the way home from school. Nom nom.
Oh and Happy Birthday Evan! You are a wonderful brother and I'm sad I can't be there to celebrate with you.
That's all for now. Hopefully the weekend will make for some more exciting entries.
Attempted shopping today, but on account of the freezing wind, we gave up rather quickly.
Meal:
Madame only cooks for us Sunday through Tuesday so we fend for ourselves the other days. I have rather missed our little family dinners the last two nights. That said I made a wonderful salad tonight. Fresh greens and avocado tossed with some olive oil and red wine vinegar topped with slices of gouda and rolled up salami. Picked up a fresh baguette on the way home from school. Nom nom.
Oh and Happy Birthday Evan! You are a wonderful brother and I'm sad I can't be there to celebrate with you.
That's all for now. Hopefully the weekend will make for some more exciting entries.
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Day 7: survived week one!
So, I've been here a week, but it has felt so much longer. This is probably because we do the same.thing.every.day. We have three more days of french intensive until real classes start, which will hopefully be much better. It is also very cold, thus making me lazy and tired. I have confidence this will improve.
Sunni and I visited the Sacre Coeur today which was truly breathtaking. Unfortunately there were so many people that we didn't have the energy to go inside. However, that is the luxury of staying here for three months; we can go back and go inside another time.
Tonight was the first time we had to cook for ourselves. I rather missed our little family dinner. I made mini basil ravioli with pesto and salad. It was quite delicious, but not really the same. Madame has theater rehearsal on Wednesday nights which I find to be amusing.
Sunni and I visited the Sacre Coeur today which was truly breathtaking. Unfortunately there were so many people that we didn't have the energy to go inside. However, that is the luxury of staying here for three months; we can go back and go inside another time.
Tonight was the first time we had to cook for ourselves. I rather missed our little family dinner. I made mini basil ravioli with pesto and salad. It was quite delicious, but not really the same. Madame has theater rehearsal on Wednesday nights which I find to be amusing.
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Day 6: rain-boo, dinner-woo
Our Musée d'Orsay trip got cancelled today due to problems none of us could understand. They say it will be postponed. Thus, we got out of class at 1:30 and it was pouring freezing rain. So, Sonia and I scuttled on home and made a big pot of coffee, lounged around in the warmth and did some homework. By 5 I was feeling antsy and knew that dinner was a ways a way, so I decided to go for a run. What was meant to be a run soon turned into a brisk walk on account of the frigid air and the fact that I became totally and utterly lost. This wouldn't have worried me ordinarily, but as it was getting dark fairly quickly I made sure to keep up the pace. One good thing about this adventure, I further discovered my neighborhood and find it even more charming. There are two Picard's very near by. Now, Picard is a genre of store we most certainly lack in the US. Fact 1: The French are OBSESSED with frozen food. They flash freeze it so it is very often fresher than grocery store food. In addition, pre-made meals here do not stoop so low to the quality of Jimmy Dean or Hungry Man, but are very gourmet, authentic, natural meals that can be grabbed and heated up for a wonderful meal. I also discovered two yummy-looking sushi places.
Oh and I also had my first pain au chocolat today...j'aime beaucoup
Meal:
Sonia and I were very skeptical of the first course today but not for very long. We sat down to a grated carrot salad (no problem) but it was topped with rolled up slices of something we could not identify. I was nearly sure it was steak tartare...one of the few foods I will not eat. After asking what it was, I was still very skeptical: reindeer. I still did not know if it was cooked. So I hesitantly took a small taste. Not only was it cooked, but the thinly sliced Rudolph had been fumée-d...smoked! The carrots had a light mustard dressing and the whole dish was simply wonderful
Next we had smalled salmon steaks wrapped in foil and baked with tomatos, lemon and herbs. Fantastic
Steamed spinach on the side
Candied chestnuts for dessert
one of my favorite meals yet
the salmon and live scallops in shell at a market near my school. they kept opening and closing!
Oh and I also had my first pain au chocolat today...j'aime beaucoup
Meal:
Sonia and I were very skeptical of the first course today but not for very long. We sat down to a grated carrot salad (no problem) but it was topped with rolled up slices of something we could not identify. I was nearly sure it was steak tartare...one of the few foods I will not eat. After asking what it was, I was still very skeptical: reindeer. I still did not know if it was cooked. So I hesitantly took a small taste. Not only was it cooked, but the thinly sliced Rudolph had been fumée-d...smoked! The carrots had a light mustard dressing and the whole dish was simply wonderful
Next we had smalled salmon steaks wrapped in foil and baked with tomatos, lemon and herbs. Fantastic
Steamed spinach on the side
Candied chestnuts for dessert
one of my favorite meals yet
the salmon and live scallops in shell at a market near my school. they kept opening and closing!
Monday, January 17, 2011
Day 5: la propédeutique
Started our week of intensive French today. Teacher's cool, class is good, yea yea. After a wonderful lunch with Sunithi, which consisted of the most fabulous omelette I have ever tasted and an etherial cafe creme, we both came to the realization that we will be truly spoiled by the end of this trip and it will be very difficult to return to terrible American coffee...and food for that matter. After lunch, we were given a tour of the neighborhood where the IES center is located. Right in the center of the 6th arrondissement, rue Daguerre is a true microcosm of Paris. Everything one could ever need is steps away and the smell of fresh pain au chocolat lingers in the air from the morning. There are a multitude of little chocolate shops, a greek cafe and a small store that consisted solely of an enormous case FULL with freshly made pasta waiting to be taken home and thrown in boiling water.
It seems to be getting colder and unfortunately is supposed to snow on my birthday, whomp whomp. However, Madame informed me that I am more than welcome to invite another friend over for dinner on that day. I'll give you one wild guess to who l'invitée will be. Came home to another wonderful dinner. Everyday I am pleasantly surprised by her cooking. After tonight's dinner, we were all sitting around drinking tea while she pointed me to her STACK of France's most popular culinary magazine. It is so interesting. Absolutely full of recipes I have never heard of.
Meals:
Sunday dinner (always more fancy):
pumpkin soup w/ coconut milk, curry and cardamom-->so good
calamari curry over rice
some sort of cake/mousse beautiful dessert that Sonia and I bought for madame at our local Patisserie
Dinner tonight:
Celery Root soup--> delicious
Pounded grilled pork (i think) with mushroom sauce and pasta
It seems to be getting colder and unfortunately is supposed to snow on my birthday, whomp whomp. However, Madame informed me that I am more than welcome to invite another friend over for dinner on that day. I'll give you one wild guess to who l'invitée will be. Came home to another wonderful dinner. Everyday I am pleasantly surprised by her cooking. After tonight's dinner, we were all sitting around drinking tea while she pointed me to her STACK of France's most popular culinary magazine. It is so interesting. Absolutely full of recipes I have never heard of.
Meals:
Sunday dinner (always more fancy):
pumpkin soup w/ coconut milk, curry and cardamom-->so good
calamari curry over rice
some sort of cake/mousse beautiful dessert that Sonia and I bought for madame at our local Patisserie
Dinner tonight:
Celery Root soup--> delicious
Pounded grilled pork (i think) with mushroom sauce and pasta
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Day 4 and 5
Woke up to beautiful sunshine yesterday, the first we've seen yet. My first attempt to run in the city can be considered very much a failure. I can see now why most people belong to gyms, my lungs felt like they were coated in tar. That said, I became much better acquainted with my neighborhood! Apparently I live right around the corner from Le cimetière du Père-Lachaise where Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde among many others are buried. The thick wall of the cemetery provides a perfect focal point for navigating my way around the neighborhood because it is easily spotted and i can follow the perimeter if I get lost. On this, run I also discovered a large organic market around the corner. Compared to this culinary menagerie, Whole Foods is an embarrassment and a complete rip off. Everything from organic nutella to 50 cent whole grain baguettes, to pull apart baby fresh ravioli. I got a large jar of fresh pesto for 2.5 euros...a steal!!
After this adventure, Sunni and I met up and explored the lavish St. Germain des Pres. Possibly the greatest thing about this city is not the tourist attractions or historic monuments, but getting lost and discovering true Paris. We spent two hours walking around gushing about the beauty or charm of this or that. Finally realizing we were starved, we stumbled into a cafe. I had a fabulously fresh salad of lettuce, tomatoes, blanched haricot-verts, cubes of swiss cheese, chicken very lightly drizzled with mustard vinaigrette and a crusty baguette. Nothing could have been better.
This being our first Saturday in Paris, a group of us decided to explore the night life a bit. Going off a recommendation from a friend previously in Paris, we sought out le crocodile. A whole in the wall bar with blurry windows and loud music that could be heard from down the block. Timidly entering, we were soon engulfed in a tiny, crowded bar full of local young adults. With 13 pages of cocktails, there was so much to choose from and so much french eavesdrop on. All drinks come with a tiny gummy crocodile as a garnish, certainly making them memorable. The music was good and the people were friendly. We were actually complemented on our french! A rarity in Paris to be sure.
Had a lovely and leisurely Sunday with Sonia (my housemate) today. It was wonderfully sunny yet again. We did some grocery shopping and explored the neighborhood a bit more.
After this adventure, Sunni and I met up and explored the lavish St. Germain des Pres. Possibly the greatest thing about this city is not the tourist attractions or historic monuments, but getting lost and discovering true Paris. We spent two hours walking around gushing about the beauty or charm of this or that. Finally realizing we were starved, we stumbled into a cafe. I had a fabulously fresh salad of lettuce, tomatoes, blanched haricot-verts, cubes of swiss cheese, chicken very lightly drizzled with mustard vinaigrette and a crusty baguette. Nothing could have been better.
This being our first Saturday in Paris, a group of us decided to explore the night life a bit. Going off a recommendation from a friend previously in Paris, we sought out le crocodile. A whole in the wall bar with blurry windows and loud music that could be heard from down the block. Timidly entering, we were soon engulfed in a tiny, crowded bar full of local young adults. With 13 pages of cocktails, there was so much to choose from and so much french eavesdrop on. All drinks come with a tiny gummy crocodile as a garnish, certainly making them memorable. The music was good and the people were friendly. We were actually complemented on our french! A rarity in Paris to be sure.
Had a lovely and leisurely Sunday with Sonia (my housemate) today. It was wonderfully sunny yet again. We did some grocery shopping and explored the neighborhood a bit more.
Friday, January 14, 2011
Day 3
Orientation continues. And it seems to just get more boring. Most of the topics covered are either common sense or can easily be found in a guide book. Clearly, many people have not done their homework and continue to ask mundane questions and keep us there for hours. Oh well, my seat mates make it entertaining nonetheless. The whole group went and had dinner on a Seine river boat. Not all together that thrilling because it was pouring rain and in a pretty ugly part of the city...we passed a trash chute that puts garbage on barges. Case in point. Tomorrow Sunni and I are going to explore St Germaine des Pres and Notre Dame...should make for an exciting day. Unlike today.
Meals:
le petit dejeuner: Same as yesterday
le dejeuner: same but with a smoked salmon baguette and a canelle
le diner: salmon with rice and petit deserts, salmon was dry but with a yummy lobster bisque-esque sauce
Meals:
le petit dejeuner: Same as yesterday
le dejeuner: same but with a smoked salmon baguette and a canelle
le diner: salmon with rice and petit deserts, salmon was dry but with a yummy lobster bisque-esque sauce
Thursday, January 13, 2011
Day 1 & 2: Planes, trains and automobiles
Literally.
Took a 747 to a 777 to a train to a taxi (after searching for 20 minutes in the rain). Host mother is very welcoming and sweet; a wonderful cook as well. The apartment is no thrill but clean and spacious and in a very safe building. Can't wait to explore the neighborhood. Helene (host mom) took Sonia and I on a tour of the neighborhood, her main point being that we must not go to the patisserie across the street because it is far inferior to the one down the street. Ended the day completely exhausted then woke up wide awake at 2am.
Meals for the day:
Omlete/Soufflee with ratatouille with a gruyere cheese crust
Butter lettuce salad
Cabbage and mint soup with creme fraiche
Shrimp with rice
Eggplant mash
Day 2:
First day of orientation. Much happier today. Met some awesome people...and some...not so awesome. The IES staff is really funny and nice. So excited to explore more. We had a 2 hour conversation about pick pockets and honestly I don't think some of these kids knew they were coming to Europe. They were freaking out about getting mugged and sold into sex slavery. Two words, common sense. Had first cafe creme of the trip with Sunni in le Cafe d'Orleans. So so yummy. Helene cooked a most exceptional and indulgent dinner.
Meals:
Fitness (basically fiber cereal)
Box lunch provided by IES. Most sophisticated and delicious box lunch ever. Baguette sandwich with chicken, lettuce and tomato. Carrot and cabbage salad and a fantastic brownie.
Dinner was endive and apple salad.
Duck confit and herbed slivered potatoes
Galette du roi
Took a 747 to a 777 to a train to a taxi (after searching for 20 minutes in the rain). Host mother is very welcoming and sweet; a wonderful cook as well. The apartment is no thrill but clean and spacious and in a very safe building. Can't wait to explore the neighborhood. Helene (host mom) took Sonia and I on a tour of the neighborhood, her main point being that we must not go to the patisserie across the street because it is far inferior to the one down the street. Ended the day completely exhausted then woke up wide awake at 2am.
Meals for the day:
Omlete/Soufflee with ratatouille with a gruyere cheese crust
Butter lettuce salad
Cabbage and mint soup with creme fraiche
Shrimp with rice
Eggplant mash
Day 2:
First day of orientation. Much happier today. Met some awesome people...and some...not so awesome. The IES staff is really funny and nice. So excited to explore more. We had a 2 hour conversation about pick pockets and honestly I don't think some of these kids knew they were coming to Europe. They were freaking out about getting mugged and sold into sex slavery. Two words, common sense. Had first cafe creme of the trip with Sunni in le Cafe d'Orleans. So so yummy. Helene cooked a most exceptional and indulgent dinner.
Meals:
Fitness (basically fiber cereal)
Box lunch provided by IES. Most sophisticated and delicious box lunch ever. Baguette sandwich with chicken, lettuce and tomato. Carrot and cabbage salad and a fantastic brownie.
Dinner was endive and apple salad.
Duck confit and herbed slivered potatoes
Galette du roi
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)